Sheikh Chic

I believe in dreams," declares Valentino—whom the Washington 'I Opera inevitably chose to confect costumes for The Dream of Valentino, an extravaganza chronicling the lurid, limelit career of the late matinee idol. Dismissing any idea of an affinity between himself and his romantic namesake, the designer says, "His legend endures because of the mysteries in his life: Was or wasn't he a bigamist, a homosexual, a gigolo? Was his death accidental?"

More intriguing to the couturier than the silver-screen swain are the "crazy, absolutely nutty women who surrounded him"—and who transform in one scene into shawl-swathed, fringe-draped "nightmares." Though the costumes, debuting January 1 5 at the Kennedy Center, are historically accurate, they are "also surrealistic. They reflect a moment when everything—fashion, movies—was beautiful to look at. And," he sighs, "when there was no shame in being glamorous."

AMY FINE COLLINS