TALK OF THE TOWN

Vanities/Culture

I always go into Musso & Frank with a sense ofwonder and enjoyment. I know I am being welcomed into a great tradition and I am about to experience it anew. May Musso & Frank live forever!" -Francis Ford Coppola

Calf's liver. Jellied consomme. A martini with a "sidecar" of the second pour on ice. Musso & Frank Grill has earned a devoted dinership serving such holdover classics, and this month, Hollywood's oldest restaurant marks its centennial—an achievement in a town of fickle fad dining. What's the grill's secret ingredient for success? Keith Richards might describe it best: "tradition." The waiters' red jackets match the leather booths at the familyowned institution, where legends past and present have sat: Fitzgerald, Faulkner, Garbo, and Tarantino, who featured Musso's in his recent film Once Upon a Time...in Hollywood. And to ring in its 100th birthday, The Musso & Frank Grill book—part guest book, part cookbook—by V.F. contributing editor Michael Callahan, is out thismonth.

BRITT HENNEMUTH