High Noon in the Garden

SAVANNAH, QUEEN OF THE SOUTHERN COAST

It has been 10 years since the publication of what most locals in Savannah refer to as The Book. Although most of its real-life protagonists have since passed away, John Berendt's Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil reminded the world that Savannah not only still exists but provides amnesty to a myriad of delightful misfits devoted to keeping it alive. Today, The Book's impact seems apparent only in the city's tourism industry, while larger forces shape the resurgence of what Lady Astor described as "a beautiful woman with a dirty face."

The transformation has taken decades, but Savannah's face is being thoroughly washed and exfoliated. Longtime residents are wary and suspicious of the change: restoration requires money, and Savannah has had less than its northern neighbor Charleston. But recognizing that continued neglect is tantamount to suffocating a loved one, the locals are embracing the revival if only for the thrill of seeing the town's inherent beauty resurface. Fortunately, two of the main benefactors have the parallel goals of saving buildings while maintaining Savannah's true character. Both the Historic Savannah Foundation, a nonprofit dedicated to balancing preservation and diversity, and the Savannah College of Art and Design, now the largest art school in the U.S., have reanimated significant portions of the town.

Savannah is less idyllic than dreamlike. Living in full relief amid its architectural diversity, its 22 public squares, its oak canopies protecting colorful gardens, is Savannah's true glory: its people. Many settled here when sections of town were derelict and abandoned, and they not only welcome visitors but gladly—and constantly—entertain them. From the boardedup but fully operational glass shop, Brown's Paint & Glass Company, to the third-generation key-maker, Bradley Lock & Key Shop, one can still find friendly relics of old Savannah.

In case the visitor is not used to a hug on first meeting, an afternoon libation always helps with acclimation. This is a Savannah hallmark, along with the "to go" cup, which allows you to carry your drink from sunporch to park to restaurant (and, for some, to crawl to local dive Pinkie Master's). Realtorabout-town Wanda Brooks brings this tradition to a higher level with her insulated flamingo cup ("to keep the ice cold and the scotch from sweating"). Infected by Savannah's charm, seasonal visitors are deciding to become permanent cast members.

Savannah does have a natural slow-growth insurance policy, including sub-Saharan temperatures in summer and an assortment of flying insects ("It's a palmetto bug, not a cockroach"), which protects the town from too much outside influence. This will be tested in June, when the G8 summit is held on nearby Sea Island. Residents fear that Savannah will suffer from the mob of ancillary people. The truth is that the city's guests, including the heads of state, would do themselves and the world a favor if they adopted Savannah's undying graciousness.

RICHARD WOFFORD