Truffle in Paradise

SEARCHING FOR TREASURE IN NORTHERN ITALY

For skiers it's February in Saint-Moritz. For sun worshippers and social climbers it's Christmas on St. Barts. But for foodand wine-lovers the ultimate destination has lately become October and November in the Langhe Hills of Piedmont, in northwest Italy. That's when the white truffles are harvested from the woods by trifolai—weather-beaten locals who employ truffle-sniffing dogs. With white truffles considerably rarer than black, and fetching upwards of $ 1,000 a pound, the trifolai tend to be both superstitious and fiercely protective of their "hunting grounds." During truffle season, underlying the usual conviviality of the rustic-feeling town of Alba is an air of competition and the secrecy of a drug bazaar, with furtive deals being conducted around scales and healthy sums of money being exchanged.

To the southwest of Alba, in the Barolo wine zone, and to the north, in the Barbaresco area, striking, sun-washed vineyards hug the steep slopes. According to David Lynch, the sommelier at Manhattan's Babbo and author (with Babbo co-owner Joseph Bastianich) of the sensational new Vino Italiano Buying Guide: The Ultimate Quick Reference to the Great Wines of Italy, Barolo and Barbaresco are "without doubt the headiest, most aromatically complex wines made in Italy."

Gastro-tourists can experience the delicious wine and earthy, robust food in the region's superlative country restaurants any time of year. But white truffles are harvested only in the fall. If you want to get really adventuresome and try your own hand at truffle hunting, check with your hotelier on how to hire a trifola guide and a mongrel.

DOUG STUMPF