VANITY FAIR

Volume 57

Number 10

October 1994

The New Establishment

The Information Age has arrived. As a new American frontier opens, who is driving the country forward? The names and faces have changed, along with the landscape. In a special report, Vanity Fair examines how the old elite lost its power— and how a New Establishment has risen to take its place........ 209

The Portfolio of Power: From a yacht off Ketchikan, Alaska, to a Gulfstream IV in mid-flight, to a 100,000-acre ranch in Montana, to Hollywood, New York, and the Pacific Northwest wilderness, Annie Leibovitz tracks down the members of the New Establishment and catches the faces of change......... 212

That Was Then, This Is Now: Unlike the soft-spoken guardians of the Old Establishment, the buccaneers of the Information Age are a loose-knit group without common agendas or fixed loyalties. These moguls talk to Elise O'Shaughnessy about their visions, their empires, and each other......... 214

Masters of an Old Game: They went to the right schools, wear the right clothes, and belong to the right clubs, but they are no longer guaranteed an E-ticket to national prominence. If the old boys are still networking, is anybody listening? Nicholas Lemann walks their quiet halls in search of an answer............. 242

The Decline and Fall of the Eastern Empire: The rise of Henry Kissinger augured the end of the Old Establishment. David Halberstam considers how Kissinger's brilliant, self-aggrandizing maneuverings and ever shifting alliances signaled the victory of personal ambition over civic conscience........ 246

Features

Cruise Speed: The classic Tom Cruise role is a carefree, all-American hero. His new movie, the already controversial Interview with the Vampire, puts him in a startlingly different light— as the lascivious, hedonistic Lestat. Talking with Kevin Sessums, Cruise confronts questions about his own sexuality, his marriage, and his Scientology. Photographs by Annie Leibovitz............ 188

Chatelaine on a Hot Tin Roof: Heather Locklear has taken off as the Queen Bitch of Melrose Place—and carried the floundering show with her. But to Michael Musto, the prime-time vixen is still a Valley Girl, right down to her roots. Photographs by Michel Comte . . 196

Laudable Lauder: Bob Colacello and Firooz Zahedi spotlight philanthropist and photographer Evelyn Lauder, who has found a fresh way to raise money for the fight against breast cancer......... 200

The Queen of Less Wants More: Jil Sander is Germany's answer to Armani, an elegant, minimalist fashion superstar. But even as her $200 million empire expands into the United States, the designer herself remains an enigma. In Hamburg, Bob Colacello sizes up Sander's life of luxe. Photographs by Eric Boman......... 202

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Columns

Cultural Elite: Christopher Hitchens finds that the anti-smoking brigade's puritanical efforts to save his life are threatening his liberty and his pursuit of happiness. 88

Divine Grace: Until her tragic death in 1982, Grace Kelly seemed to move effortlessly from starlet to princess to legend. But Robert Lacey reveals the reality of her life: the private anguish over her relationships with her husband and daughters, her bitterness as middle age touched her classic beauty, and the rapture she found with a succession of young companions.98

Mr. Holbrooke Builds His Dream Job: After almost 14 years on the sidelines, Richard Holbrooke is back in Washington, as assistant secretary of state for Europe. But will his lust for power continue to obscure his talent? Marjorie Williams profiles the notorious Beltway operator.128

Tout le de Monvel: Jamie James previews the first major retrospective of the work of Bernard Boutet de Monvel, whose chic society portraits in the 1920s and 1930s made him the toast of New York's smart set........ 142

Debbie in the Desert: Golden-age trouper Debbie Reynolds has sunk her hopes, her money, and her third marriage into a derelict hotel-casino in the Las Vegas sand. Leslie Bennetts joins Carrie and Todd Fisher as they try to help their mother's show go on. Photographs by Eric Boman. 146

Vanities

Joie de Juliet Landau; Hype & Glory—Henry Alford diagnoses Culture Victims; J. Hoberman on Hopalong Cassidy, the licensed cowboy; George Wayne entertains Martha Stewart; Frank Conroy's ode to a publishing great......... 169

Et Cetera

Editor's Letter: The New Establishment....... 32

Contributors. 42

Letters: Original Cindy. 62

Credits. 272

Planetarium: Many faces of Libra. 274

Social Study: The prolific Mr. Vidal puts the Gore details in the Proust Questionnaire. 276