VANITY FAIR

March

Contents

Volume 50 Number 3

Features

The Weird Dreams of David Lynch: The director of Blue Velvet reveals his two other passions—Isabella Rossellini and his dreamy drawings. By Stephen Schiff, with photographs by Annie Leibovitz 86

One by One: AIDS is decimating the arts in America. A report by Michael Shnayerson 92

It's a Family Affair: Princess Margaret and Raquel Welch attend the party of the year, a weeklong Caribbean birthday bash. So does Dominick Dunne 98

Inside Diane Keaton: The divine actress makes her directorial debut with Heaven. Joan Juliet Buck asks some angelic questions 104

Burgeoning Burgess: The unearthly powers of novelist Anthony Burgess, spotlit by James Atlas 110

Exits, Dancing: Suzanne Farrell, Balanchine's Terpsichore, the greatest ballerina in the world, takes her final curtain call. David Daniel presents a critical bouquet. Photographs by Annie Leibovitz 112

Our (Fabulous) Man in Vienna: Ambassador Ronald Lauder, scion of the Cosmetic Hapsburgs, star art collector, and coming Republican, profiled by Bob Colacello 120

A Muse to a Talent: Four females who inspire the fashion designers of Paris. Style and photographs by Andr6 Leon Talley 126

Beneath a Mocking Sky: An excerpt from Staring at the Sun, the new novel from Julian (Flaubert's Parrot) Barnes 130

Out to Lunch: Kingsley Amis is toasted by James Atlas 156

Columns

Editor's Letter: A secret disease 8

Letters: Readers bite back 24

Mixed Media: James Wolcott on the new kings of pom 30

Wine: Joel L. Fleishman's revamped wine list at "21" 32

Audio/Video: Edward Rothstein on the LP's final revolution 41

Movies: Stephen Schiff s personal Oscars 41

Cars: Mark Ginsburg goes for the Sterling with Mary Boone 57

Book Marks: James Atlas on V. S. Naipaul 64

Flashback:Vanity Fair, January 1929. 'S glamorous George Gershwin 85

Vanities

Swifty's got Oscar.. .Life in the flash lane with Madonna and Kay Graham... Diana Vreeland returns our call... Nick Kamen's first cuts... Wherefore art thou Romeo Gigli?.. .Jon Bradshaw: a remembrance.. .Astrology: picking up the Pisces.. .Scroll of shame: this month's dirty words 71

Arts Fair

Lanford Wilson's latest.. .All about Eva Marton.. .Jan Groover's oeuvre... George Gershwin, fifty years on... Short Schiff... Lounge wizard David Cale.. .Martha Clarke.. .Merce works.. .Max Apple's polish... Following Fassbinder... Wartime waltzing... Night-table reading 135