For the Well Dressed Man

Clothes and Accessories for the Summer and for Outdoor Life

ROBERT LLOYD TREVOR

FOR the man who is particular about his dress—and this is the type of man to whom only I care to appeal — this season will present, with especial force, the problem of selecting his clothes with an eye single to their definite utility. Perhaps it may justly be called an axiom of good taste in regard to dress, that each article and the design of each article should have a purpose, a practical usefulness, a raison d'-être. But if this statement be accepted as axiomatic, it, nevertheless, has a peculiar bearing in this year of war.

It is not a time for needless decoration, nor is it a time for reckless experiments; it is a year, above all others, in which simple common sense should be displayed in the selection of a suitable wardrobe. Many of the articles which are illustrated in this issue may serve as proof of the pudding. In them the idea of practical usefulness has been emphasized.

For example, there is the easily-fitting, slipon overcoat made of covert cloth which has been proofed sufficiently to withstand showers of reasonable intensity. It is cut rather loosely with raglan shoulders and convenient pockets. Such a coat serves a multiplicity of purposes. It can be worn in both city and country or as a travelling coat in the period of transit between the streets and the fields, either by train or by motor. It is sufficiently light to be easily carried and not to be burdensome and, at the same time, is warm enough to give the necessary protection. Such a coat would be found a very useful part of one's summer outfit no matter in what way one may be planning to spend the warm months. Another very practical thing to have in one's luggage is a light - weight dressinggown, such as that illustrated in this issue, made of mohair, cashmere, or silk. It is easily folded into almost a vanishing point of space and therefore occupies very little of the precious room in one's bag. The usefulness of such a house-gown for the oft-times perilous and congested journey from bed room to bath, will be appreciated by all who have endeavored to get down to breakfast on time, and, at the same time, correctly interpret the active traffic signals along the halls.

Of course, headgear forms an important item in the summer wardrobe. As has been suggested in these pages heretofore, the straw hats will be worn both in the conventional boater shape and in a block much like a Homberg. One of the good boater types is the subject of one of this month's illustrations. Split straws, especially of the coarser weaves, may be used, and for men who want a hat of extremely light weight, panama or leghorn straws may also be had in this conventional block. There are signs also of the recrudescence of the cloth hat for wear in the city as well as out of town. These hats have the advantage of light weight and are very comfortable to wear. They may be had, of course, in a great variety of patterns in solid colors, of which a khaki shade is very good, and in checks. The ever-useful cap should not be forgotten for travelling, motoring, golf, or yachting. It is always wise to err on the side of largeness in selecting the cap, so that it can be pulled well down and defy the wind.

IN these days of uncertain railroad schedules, scarcity of porters, baggage congestion, and general abnormality on the railroads, one's personal hand luggage has taken on a degree of importance heretofore unknown. Many good types of bags are obtainable—some of them incorporating valuable features which have been learned from use by officers. As in the case of a cap, it is well to have one's bag too large rather than too small, although, obviously, for a different reason. Nothing is less comfortable than week-ending "light." It will detract from the pleasure of an otherwise perfectly good week-end party, to feel that one has not thought to bring along that extra pair of flannel trousers, or the golf shoes which would be so supremely useful. In general, the kit type of bag will be found most commodious and least upsetting to its contents, of whatever nature this may be. Perhaps it is the very fact that baggage service is less reliable than it used to be and that the habit is growing, in this country, of carrying more luggage and sending less under check or by express, that has led to the designing of many useful space-saving accessories of dress. One or two of these are illustrated in this number of Vanity Fair. One of these is a military hair brush made with very short bristles, so as to be exceedingly flat. It fits, together with a short comb, into a flat leather case. The whole thing takes up but little room. Another useful contrivance of this type is a pair of brushes for clothes and hat, which are leather-backed and fit snugly into a bag of soft leather.

SHIRTS for summer are of a profusion of types and materials. Silks, madras, cheviots, flannels, are all popular. They are made both with pleated and plain bosoms and many colored shirts have soft collars to match, attached. These collars, as is true also of the white detached turnover collars, are low and have a form which makes them very comfortable. Men are insisting more and more on absolute ease and freedom from annoyance in their clothes, especially for the warm weather, and this applies with particular force to the matter of collars. Both throw-over, scarfs and bow ties will be wanted for the season's wear, and for the most part rather quiet colors will prevail. Slightly starched soft collars give every indication of being popular for informal wear.

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The war has had its influence on walking sticks as upon all other things. The so-called trench stick, carried by the officer, is finding its prototype in civilian life. It is usually a straight stick with a wrist loop of leather so that the cane may be carried easily on the arm. A very interesting variation of this stick is illustrated in this issue. In this case, the leather loop has a free end which slides through a lashing around the shaft of the stick. When it is not wanted it may be pulled down flat, but when it is wanted it is readily loosened so as to become a serviceable loop.

How familiar is the sensation of fumbling around in one's cigarette case to extract the desired cigarette. The result is frequently a loss of patience, if not broken or dropped cigarettes. All of these difficulties are overcome by a type of cigarette case which has just been put on the market, in which the cigarettes are held by a fluted bar in such a way that each is protected from contact with its neighbor, and at the same time all are presented end first, and clear of both sides of the case. In this way there is no chance of dropping the cigarette or breaking the paper. The convenience of such a case is obvious. It may be had in many types and kinds of metal. It is another one of the little things which serve to reveal that this season is a peculiarly practical one.

FOR life on board a boat, the most suitable shoes will be found to be those made of white buck-skin fitted with a sole of exceedingly thick black rubber. This type of sole is very springy and serves to give one an excellent grip upon the deck. The shoes may be made with plain toe, with toe-cap or brogued. Brown leather low boots, either plain or with broguing, and a heavy rubber sole of the spongy type will also be found useful. Buckskin has become exceedingly difficult to obtain, on account of the war. It is, nevertheless, one of the most desirable materials for certain shoes.

you care to buy any articles illustrated in the Well Dressed Man Depart ment Mr. Trevor will be delighted to tell you where they may be purchased. Simply indicate what you wish and mention the pages on which they are pictured. If you prefer, Mr. Trevor will direct the buying of any article for you. In that case, enclose your check drawn to the order of the Vanity Fair Publishinz Conipanv. There will be no charge whatever for these services.