For the Well Dressed Man

Some Spring Clothes for In and Out of Town

ROBERT LLOYD TREVOR

WE are now at that transition period of the year when man—and woman for that matter—is neither quite of the city or the country, but partaking, as it were, a little of both. He is amphibious, if one may use that phrase to describe a state of mind. Naturally, his clothes reflect this condition; for clothes, in the case of a man who cares at all about his appearance, always reflect rather accurately his particular mental or physical situation. For the most part, however, the annual hegira to the country—or, to be more strictly accurate, to that part of the country which lies in striking distance of the city—has begun.

For this reason man is at present a creature of motor coats for a certain definite portion of most of his days. He drives into town each morning and out again each night through the scenes of beauty and of bourgeoning which mark the season that the dry-minded insist on calling the Vernal Equinox. If he is not altogether taken up with the things of the office or the gloomy memories of his income tax, his mind is receptive to Spring beauty and Spring freshness. It is not surprising, therefore, that his motor coats and his other articles of apparel should show at least a small reflection of this mood.

ON these pages, I have illustrated a number of types of coats and hats which will be found in the wardrobe of the really welldressed man this season. They include coats for motoring and for street wear and coats suitable for a combination purpose of motor car and thoroughfare. One of the most interesting coats of the latter description is made of homespun and has an inverted pleat in the back and a short, buttoned belt. This coat is made with three buttons, buttoning through, and with curved side pockets which have no flaps. It has a decided swing and dash about it, but is designed after a sufficiently conservative pattern to be quite permissible for wear in the street; for informal uses, of course. At the same time it has sufficient roominess and ease to make it a highly desirable garment for use in the motor car. For comfortable motoring one must have a coat loose enough and free enough to leave one quite at one's ease, either in the driver's seat or in the tonneau. A tight coat in an automobile is an abomination of desolation. The two things in no way belong together.

Another good coat for motoring is made of Shetland Harris homespun. It has either a belt all the way round or merely a half belt in the back. This coat has a deep collar and roomy pocket. It is more strictly a motor coat than the other coat of which I have been speaking and is especially suitable either for long trips in which one is the passenger or for wear when doing the driving oneself. It may be thought that we are getting a bit too near the true warm weather to give much attention to overcoats of any description these days. This is by no means true when the automobile comes into the picture, however. Nothing can be colder than motoring and it is worth while to remember this fact, trite though it may seem. Even on a very balmy Spring day there is apt to come a certain creepy chill with the twilight; a coolness which is tremendously intensified bv the swift flight of the motor car.It is then that the overcoat is indeed welcome.

FOR street wear in the Spring, few coats are more convenient that the covert coat, an excellent example of which is illustrated in this issue. These "go to covert" coats, derived originally, of course, from a practical hunting garment, follow the outline of the figure easily and hang rather straight from the shoulder line, with only the essential drapery. The coat is of greenish tan color and is made with four rows of stitching on the cuffs at the hand, on the collar and on the bottom of the coat. The length of coats of this character should be such as to bring them about half way between knee and hip.

Sacque suits for Spring are characterized by an air of easy comfort which is, as has been pointed out in these pages heretofore, a probable reflection of the war spirit. In these times, men have come to realize the worth of practical things and practical clothes. They want to have the body comfortable in order, perhaps, that the mind may be liberated from petty and unnecessary annoyances for the important work which Is at hand. A good sacque suit of this description, which I have chosen for illustration, is made of dark greenish gray herring-bone flannel.

The jacket has three buttons and is cut rather squarely at the skirts.

THE soft felt hats of the Homburg pattern will be much worn this season. They have the advantage of comfort combined with good looks. Generally speaking, the crowns are rather high and the brims rolled rather sharply and not too wide. These hats, of course, may be had in various shades of browns and grays and, also, in various weights to suit the requirements of the individual. They will be in great measure superseded before many weeks by the straw hats of Summer, which, this year, will be worn both in the conventional boater shape and of a block somewhat like the Homburg. Coarse straws, Leghorns and Panamas will be used for both these forms of hats. The two last named types of material have the advantage of extreme lightness which is always a desirable quality for the warm weather hat.

I have illustrated in this issue a number of types of attractive socks, fashioned of wool of light weight, silk and wool mixtures and extremely fine lisle. These materials will be widely used, in addition to silk. The wools lend themselves particularly well to socks for street wear or any wear in which there is to be much walking. They add no little to the comfort of the wearer, as a little experiment will prove, and one sees them more and more nowadays. The silk and wool mixtures have something of the advantages of both materials about them and make delightfully soft and comfortable socks. In all three of the materials mentioned various patterns may be had, including ribbing, clocks and plain weaves which run a wide gamut of color shadings.

IN these days of difficult travel, in which embargoes and restrictions make the always trying detail of baggage more and more of a factor, many men are following the plan of suiting their luggage to the needs of the hour and having it of .such a character that it can physically and literally accompany them like an inanimate Fidus Achates. To this end, it is necessary to have bags both large and of comparatively light weight. A suitcase of this character is the subject of one of the illustrations in this issue. This is a very large case of English cowhide which has a roomy bellows top on its cover. Its capacity for swallowing up articles of clothing is remarkable. The bag is lined with checked English cloth and has a leather pocket in the upper, inner cover for small articles. It can be carried by hand, put on the train by the porter and delivered with one's person in the motor, thus defying the baggage smasher and, at the same time, relieving the burden of the sorely tried railroads. Incidentally, it islikely also to relieve'the strain on its owner's feelings by arriving with him and, consequently, on time.

Spring scarfs are many-hued and bright. A few attractive patterns are illustrated here. They range all the way from handkerchief scarfs, of Persian design, to simple small polka dots. For wear in the city the quieter tones and designs are usually to be preferred, although for occasions of a semi-sporting character a slightly more flamboyant taste is permissible. The materials are, of course, silks of various types and weights.

TWO of the illustrations in this issue are commemorative of one of the interesting chapters in the history of men's clothes which is closely interwoven, in this instance, with the business history of New York City. They are drawings of frock coats, one of the period of 1858 and the other of the period of 1898, kindly loaned to Vanity Fair by Messrs. Brooks Brothers, in whose Centenary booklet they are reproduced. This booklet is a record of one hundred years in the business of making and selling clothes and accessories of dress for men in the City of New York. It is probably unique, in the character and continuity of the business it records, in the history of this country. A brief account of the establishment of the business, from Valentine's Manual, throws a light on the old center of the clothing trade:

"About 1810," it says. "James Drake, David Logan, John Vansicklen, Samuel Thompson, and some others, commenced the clothing business in the vicinity of Catharine Market. Henry S. Brooks, in 1817-1818— in the days when that fine specimen of an alderman, George Buckmeister, wore his cue in the board—opened his store, on the corner of Catharine Street, which was, in 1845, replaced by the present building. At one period, just previous to 1830, Cherry Street, from James to Market, was the great centre of the clothing trade, and here some of the first wholesale houses were established. Conspicuous among them was Henry Robinson (with whom was at one time associated Joseph Hoxie), George Opdyke, our late Mayor, John J. Cisco, present Assistant Sub-treasurer of the United States in New York, Robert T. Haws, late Comptroller of the city, were all at one time in the clothing business in Cherry Street; besides a number of others who were carried by the tide of improvements to other parts of the city and country.

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"It calls back vividly old times to look upon the print which represents one of the great landmarks of Catharine Street a generation ago. What a tide passed through that narrow street in those days, hurrying to the horse-boats, hurrying to market, hurrying to the shops! And rising upon the wave, emerging like the Mariners in Virgil, here and there, some head which has become famous in one or other of the thousand channels of enterprise which New York and its citizens cut deeper, open wider, and follow with more vigor than any other people in the world. . . ."

THE entries in the old ledgers of the firm are of curious interest. We find, for instance, on June 20, 1818, the entry, "Charles Shamburg,—1 Coatee for an Apprentice, £3:8:0," and on November 5 of the same year, "Capt. Barnum—One round Jackett for son, £1 :6:0," while on October 26 one Nevingstone Greenard—a gentleman with a full-ringing name in very truth—purchased "4 skanes of silk" and some "thread and twist." Quaint entries like "One peacoat" (which cost, by the way, the princely sum of $7 in those days), "Vest, pantaloons, hanks and stockings" and "One pair nankin pant" abound in the old accounts.

During the stirring days of the Civil War the clothing house was wrecked and looted by the mob in the draft riots which offered a conspicuous contrast to the orderly progress of the draft in our own day.

THE firm has always made many officers' uniforms. From the character of the business done and of its known early customers we may assume that not a few of the veterans of the War of 1812 and of the participants in the Mexican War made use of its facilities for obtaining uniforms, etc. During and after the Civil War, it had many distinguished officers of both arms of the service as patrons, among whom were Generals Grant, Sheridan, Hooker and Sherman. It is also said that the coat worn by Lincoln on the night of his assassination was made by Brooks Brothers. At all events, he was a regular customer of the store.

If you care to buy any articles illustrated in the Well Dressed Man Department Mr. Trevor will be delighted to tell you where they may be purchased. Simply indicate what you wish and mention the pages on which they are pictured. If you prefer, Mr. Trevor will direct the buying of any article for you. In that case, enclose your check drawn to the order of the Vanity Fair Publishing Company. There is no charge for these services.